Holiday rental in Agadir: picking an area for the trip you want

Agadir beach
Agadir beach · Abderrahman Ait Ali · CC BY-SA 2.0 · Wikimedia Commons

Agadir reads simply enough: the further you get from the beach, the cheaper the square metre, and the more the town stops being a resort and starts being Moroccan. Rebuilt on a grid after the 1960 earthquake, it has neighbourhoods you can compare side by side. It comes down to one question: how many times a day will you walk down to the water?

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Agadir beach and Mountain
Agadir beach and Mountain · Abderrahman Ait Ali · CC BY-SA 2.0 · Wikimedia Commons

The seafront and Founty: sand under the window

The promenade and Founty, the Bay of Palms, is where the pools, the restaurants and the big hotels are. You pay for the view and the five minutes to the sand. The buildings are recent, most have a lift and a parking space, and that stops being a detail the moment you arrive with two suitcases and a pushchair.

Treat the words sea view with suspicion. They cover a balcony with the whole Atlantic in front of it, and a sliver of window between two blocks. Ask for a photo taken from the balcony, not from the beach. The small supermarkets down there also charge for their address, so a real shop means going into the centre.

Agadir 23.01.2011 17-22-05
Agadir 23.01.2011 17-22-05 · Rudko · CC0 · Wikimedia Commons

Talborjt and the centre: where the town actually happens

Talborjt is the working heart of Agadir: a market, cafés, taxis double-parked, grills in the evening, prices well under the seafront. The beach is ten or fifteen minutes on foot, or one small taxi when the sun is doing its worst. Over a few weeks, this is where the sums work.

Two things the listings never mention. The streets climb towards the kasbah hill, and the walk back from the market with bags, three in the afternoon in July, is felt in the calves. The quarter also goes to bed late, so if you sleep lightly ask for a room off the courtyard. And Souk El Had closes on Mondays.

Sonaba, Hay Mohammadi and Dakhla: where long stays end up

These are residential districts, lived in all year: larger flats, kitchens meant for cooking, a supermarket on the corner, and rentals by the week and above all by the month. It is what remote workers, students and people escaping a European winter take.

Ask about the internet before you commit, fibre or a 4G box, because you find out on your first real video call. And accept the trade: the beach is a bus or a taxi away, not a flight of stairs. Two taxis a day, for a month, is a number.

The month you pick changes everything

July and August are the domestic high season. Moroccan families fill the town, the beach empties at midday and fills again around five, and anything decent was booked months ago, at a price that has nothing to do with May.

The summer surprise is the fog. Plenty of mornings start grey and the sun does not break through until late morning. It burns off, but it is worth knowing before you set up a parasol at nine and wonder what happened to the brochure.

December to February is the mildest stretch in the country, and it is when long stays are genuinely negotiable: ask for a monthly rate, not a week multiplied by four. The catch is that these flats are built against heat, not cold. With no heating, a January evening indoors is chilly. March to June and September to November stay the best compromise.

What to check before you send anything

The air here carries salt, and salt eats anything metal: handles that stop closing, railings gone rusty, hinges you have to shoulder. It shows in photographs, if you look at the ironmongery and the window frames instead of the sofa.

Add the air conditioning. An old split unit makes the kind of noise that ends with you sleeping with the window open, which means sleeping with the street. Then ask what the price covers: water, electricity, wifi, cleaning, sheets.

Deposits, ID and what belongs in writing

Many owners let directly, no agency in between: something up front to hold the dates, then the balance and a security deposit on arrival, often in cash. That is normal here, not a warning sign. What protects both sides is writing it down and photographing the place on the day you move in, existing damage included.

You will almost certainly be asked for a copy of your passport. Depending on the type of accommodation a tourist tax may apply, and the amount depends on the commune and the category, so ask before you travel. Flag a night landing too: handing over keys at two in the morning goes badly when nobody agreed to it.

Car or taxis?

Inside town a car is more nuisance than help. The petits taxis are everywhere and cheap: ask for the meter or fix the fare before you get in, never after. The bay is walkable end to end along the promenade, flat and well lit.

A car earns its keep for what is not in Agadir: Taghazout, Paradise Valley, Taroudant. Check where you will put it, though: an underground space in Founty is nothing like circling the centre at nine at night. Al Massira airport is a bit over half an hour out, and any taxi does that run.

Can you swim all year?

The beach works twelve months a year, but the Atlantic stays cool, around 17 to 21 degrees. In winter people come for the sun and the promenade more than the swimming, and anyone in the water for long is in a wetsuit.

Do I need a car?

Not to stay in town: small taxis are plentiful and cheap, and the promenade is walkable. Hiring one for three or four days mid-trip, for Taghazout or Paradise Valley, beats paying for it to sit parked all week.

Are monthly rentals a normal thing?

Very. Many owners let by the week in summer and by the month the rest of the year, at a much lower nightly rate. Ask for the monthly figure and, more to the point, what it covers: that is where listings differ.

Which area with small children?

The seafront or Founty if the budget stretches: lift, parking, beach on foot and a nap without getting into a taxi. The residential districts are excellent for a long month and much less so for a week with children who want the sea twice a day.

How far ahead should I book?

For July and August, several months: what is left at the end is what nobody wanted. For winter a few weeks is enough, and for a long stay write early, because that is when an owner has room to move on price.

See apartments to rent in Agadir

See apartments to rent in Agadir

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